How is it possible for each and every day of this journey to be so completely different, new and exciting? We have already been through and seen so much, and yet there is still so much more ahead, even though we've had to give some things a miss. I was wandering about all of this while leaving our accidental guide Postar, who told us about a Turkish well in Bunje, where they play the most unusual water polo in the world.
I don't know where to begin... We had the most amazing and the biggest Croatian fishing night. How wouldn't I be thrilled? It seems we have a knack of finding ourselves in the right place at the right time. There is always something amazing, interesting and beautiful to see and learn about. As our coordinator puts it: „If you are relaxed enough and open to experience, things just happen on their own.“ So this is how our Cedo thinks, and perhaps does everything all too often. And so, in the middle of Zagvozd, he came across this local postman, who is also known by the name of – Postar (Postman), and who turned out to be this fantastically generous and enthusiastic host. He invited us to Vodenjak, but first he showed us Trg glumaca, or Actor's square, where actors have been coming for years for their theater meetings Glumci u Zagvozdu and so a town without a theater is a place with the biggest audience in the world! There you go, it only takes a brilliant idea, lots of enthusiasm and a great hosts. Postman and his team tried to educate us in very humorous manner of the importance of Vodenjak, the Turkish well from the 17th century. Even though its historical role was to serve as a water supply for the army, horses and cattle, people here have decided to use it more creatively nowadays. So, for the past ten years, believe it or not, they've been hosting water polo tournaments here. The well is also perfect for swimming lessons, where generations of eager future swimmers learned how to stay afloat.
The fact that they are miles away from the sea, and separated from it with the monumental mountain of Biokovo, hasn't stopped people from Bunje organizing the biggest and most extraordinary fishing night in Dalmatia. More than four thousand people gather for this unique fishing festivity. And so, after we were introduced to all the unusual values and customs of this area, we carried on with our mission to Biokovo.
From a small place of Milici there is a marked hiking route climbing up in an almost perfectly straight line all the way to the top. We were often left breathless, party because of the climb, but mostly because of the beautiful views. Even though the „world's most beautiful motorway“ does spoil things from this perspective of Biokovo, and although it was a slightly foggy day, views from this continental side of Biokovo are amazing. And so we said our goodbyes to green Imotski polje field, and huge Crveno and Modro jezero lake with snow covered peaks of Bosnian Cvrsnica behind them.
In front of the St. Jure peak Biokovo shows off its naked, rugged beauty. This amazingly vast area is filled with sinkholes, dales and hills scattered all over the place. There's a unique view from the top, looking over Zagora and the sea, separated with natural walls of Biokovo, Mosor, Velebit... We took our bikes down to Vosca, and carried on foot towards the sea from then on. At Strbine, from a height of 1400 meters we could see Makarska for the first time, with impressive, thousand meters high cliffs of Biokovo. Beneath us, as if we were standing on a map, there was Brac, Hvar, Peljesac, Korcula, and Vis and Solta in a kind of a hazy mist. These views are so fulfilling and inspiring. An hour and a half later we got down to Makar, where we met with a team from Speleologic and Alpinistic Club Ekstrem and a representative of Biokovo Nature park. With first big rain drops we hid inside a local shelter chatting away about our experience and the adventure. Guys from the club left us a very useful gift: a complete personal hygiene set; tooth brushes, shampoos, soaps... We wondered if they were trying to tell us something?!