That dark object of desire

Monday 2011/05/23

„I cannot sleep ever since I was given these keys“, Tonci Cizmic wailed. „To have such a valuable thing in my hands, without knowing what to do with it, is absolute torture!“ Seriously though, can you imagine how you'd feel if you had billions of dollars and no means of spending it?!

Taj mračni predmet želja

Tonci's lamentation was echoing through empty, dark, cold hallways of Kuk Nula, in hundred meters deep cliffs of Biokovo Mountain. This is actually a secret atomic shelter, built to protect members of the Federal Executive Council of former Yugoslavia, from various external and internal enemies, including atomic war. This underground building was allegedly set up to take in about three hundred people, for one year, without any contacts needed from the outside world, fully equipped, but now robbed and devastated. However, even with what’s left over it still takes one's breath away. I'm not sure what is more impressive, this tunnel village, the unbelievable paranoia of former statesmen that led to a realization of such an incredibly huge Noah's ark or the fact that the whole place got emptied and completely cleaned out without anyone ever getting caught or found out. The last concessionaire tried growing button mushrooms in these hallways, but in the end decided to give up on the project leaving the keys with Tonci for safe keeping. But now, our Tonci can't think clearly because of it! We'd decided to take this dark trip on a relatively easy day, when our only plan was to cycle less that 40km from Sestanovac to Imotski. Perhaps this easy plan would have been easier if we hadn't decided to take a „break“ at SPAvantura. This project, as the festival of Vanka regule, was started by an adventurous visionary from the island of Brac, Ivo Ljubetic–Steka. We all really love his work so we decided to come and visit him on Brac during SPAvantura, and it was brilliant!

We were relaxing in wonderful company of 24 SPAvantourists, which Steka had somehow managed to persuade to go rowing for 30 kilometers from Solta and back. I have so much to tell you about SPAvantura and its sister event, the Vanka regule festival, but I just don't have the words to describe this relaxed, open, spontaneous bunch of dear people of good will and adventure activities. So, without further ado: Vanka regule will be happening this year from 10th to 17th July.

We carried on cycling from Sestanovac over to Lovrec towards Imotski, where traffic was very low, so I could enjoy some quiet gossiping with Tea and taking in the scenery. Mislav buzzed off ahead following the rhythm of music he keeps playing on his headphones, so you're never quite sure if he is actually nodding to confirm or shaking his head to the sound of music. Sajko, on the other hand, had his own personal problems with finding his rhythm. You can read his side of the story on his blog on Sportnet Blog u gostima.

This area we're passing through is completely infertile. Only rocks and stones. No olive trees, no fields, no grass even. There are many well decorated and maintained houses, though. It seems that people who work and live abroad do care about their home town and its upkeep, which is very nice to see. Somewhere behind Dolic Draga we got to Prolosko Blato, Prolosac valley and Imotski polje field. We couldn’t get enough of this beauty. A bit further below, there is a dark, round lake, encompassed with sharply cut off steep cliffs. Behind it there is Prolosko Blato lake and a green valley extending all the way to the horizon. Prolosko Blato, unbelievably beautiful and exotic canyon Badnjevice, and Zeleno jezero lake, are just a small part of this fairly unknown hidden natural treasure of Imotski. At the end of the day we treated ourselves to gorgeous views of Crveno and Modro jezero lake.

Even though many must have heard of this ornithological phenomenon, and seen pictures of it in books and encyclopaedia, nothing beats coming here and seeing it for yourself on the edge of this sunken abyss. The cliffs surrounding the lake are up to 250 meters high, which is about the amount of the depth of the water! Until the next post, check out Luka's photos.